Slovenia – An Adventure Playground

posted in: 2025 | 0

Slovenia is one of those mountainous countries I have always been attracted to due to its rugged limestone mountain range, the Julian Alps, which it shares with neighbouring country Italy. The highest mountain being Triglav at 2864 metres lying within Triglav National Park. It is also known for its crystal-clear lakes, beautiful alpine meadows and is popular for its outdoor activities.

I had never got around to planning a visit, so, one evening at the back end of summer, Dave (fellow rescue team member) and I sat around my kitchen table and drafted a rough plan to take on the mighty Triglav in the Julian Alps and sample the climbing on offer, agreeing it should make a nice change from Tryfan..

Initial research suggested that during the warmer, summer months it gets extremely busy, with lots of visitors to the region and many ascents due to guided tours and treks making use of the high mountain huts. Our idea was to visit outside of the summer season and attempt an early winter ascent, putting our winter skills to the test and hopefully finding things less hectic. We would also tackle some of the local via ferrata routes to see what was on offer and depending on the temperature and warmth from the sun, check out the local climbing crags.  Fortunately for us, Easy Jet must have got wind of our plans as they were about to start offering flights to Ljubjiana, Slovenia’s capital from the first week of November, which was perfect. Even though the stats show November as one of the wettest months, we were hoping for a snowy adventure.

Are we there yet?

Fast forward a couple of months and we’re looking out of the window of our easy jet flight as we descend into Slovenia, looking down onto the stunning snow-capped peaks of the Julian Alps.

On arrival, we need to sort a hire car out as leading up to the trip has been a bit hectic and we’ve not sorted one yet. Once cleared through luggage, we head to the numerous car hire places across the road from the airport and see if we can get a deal. The prices we are greeted with are way too expensive “computer says no” for our budget, so we revert to securing a deal online via the airline over a coffee in the airport café while we wait. An hour or so later We walk back into the same car rental place within and speak to the same person who now gives us a massive discount for having an online booking. Feeling smug, we set off for our hostel in the village of Mojstrana, in the municipality of Kranjska Gora, our base for the trip which is approximately eighty kilometres northwest of Ljubljana. We stop off enroute at Bled to take in the tourist features such as its glacial lake, the eleventh century medieval castle and the most popular attraction with photographers; the church on the island. We arrive just before dark at our hostel, it’s noticeably chilly, around 3 degrees, we are in a shaded valley, and the sun has just tucked behind the nearby jagged peaks. We’re greeted by fellow travellers from across the globe, none of whom have heard of our home country, back in Wales, until we mention rugby and dragons.

The following morning, we need to source some gas for our Jet Boil stove before we can consider heading for Triglav. We already tried a few places on the way in yesterday but no luck. All had the wrong attachment, we’re hoping it’s third time lucky this morning, just when we’re thinking we made the wrong choice of stove for the trip, we are directed to a fairly local * electrical wholesalers that stocks it, phew! It would be a miserable night on the mountain without a hot meal or brew at minus nine degrees, according to the current weather forecast.

Up above the streets and houses

During the afternoon we decide to tackle a local via ferrata which is a stone’s throw from our accommodation on a crag overlooking the village and still in sunlight. There are two routes at Ferrata Mojstrana both start approximately one hundred metres from the entrance to the Slovenian Alpine Museum. The first via ferrata, called Aljazeva Pot, is easier and rated at **B difficulty. It is 180 m high, 250 m long and also suitable for novices*** The second route, called Pot Mojstranskih Veveric, the route of Mojstrana squirrels is graded C / D and offers a bit more of a challenge, we opt for this. It is also 180 metres high, 250 metres long and suitable if you have a bit of experience in via ferrata or climbing due to its steepness, exposure and technical difficulty. Both via ferratas lead to a replica of the Aljaž Tower, where there is also an entry book where you can log your ascent while you enjoy the view of the Julian alps and Karavanke ridge. The descent follows a rough path through the forest and exits close to the starting point. The steep ladder section is the highlight of the route along with a further exposed section onto a slab which is great fun also and gets the adrenaline pumping, oh yeh, take care not to dislodge any loose rocks into the neighbouring gardens below.

A perfect weather window

The following morning, it’s frosty, with a clear blue sky, we are very fortunate to have stable, high pressure in charge of the weather pattern for the next few days. We head out early to recce the start point of the Prag route up to Triglav in the daylight. Due to being winter conditions, we decide to head up the Vrata valley and find Aljazev dom, a mountain hut which is now closed for winter, but has nearby parking where we can leave our vehicle. On our recce we come across a rotten branch on the ground displaying the unusual phenomenon of hair ice fungus. Having never come across it before in the field, only having read about in books, it was a nice find. Tomorrow morning we will head back here before first light to set off on our ascent. On the way back to Mojstrana we stop and head up to Martuljek waterfall, the water cascades down through a steep gorge 30 metres from a second higher waterfall above. It’s a picturesque spot and you can walk behind the waterfall if you need to get that all important photo for the Gram, I recommend taking a waterproof jacket though.

Before travelling here, we contacted the Kredarica Hut to find out if we could stay overnight. It’s located just below the peak of Kredarica 2539m on a ridge between Rjavina and Triglav 2815m. It has a webcam so if like me you are a weather twitcher, you can keep an eye on the snow conditions leading up to your trip. The first hut was built in 1896 thanks to Jakob Aljaž. The accommodation now has 300 beds and is open from mid-June to mid-October. During winter (now) it’s closed for bookings but is maintained by meteorologists, who man the nearby weather station and can provide basic accommodation (bed, sheet, blanket, dorms are unheated, no food is provided). Our plan is to head up tomorrow stay at the hut overnight and summit Triglav the following morning, then descend back to the valley, hopefully we will not be faced with too deep a snowfall to hinder our progress.

Surrounded by mountains

After a leisurely breakfast at our hostel, we pack for the overnighter on the mountain and head out in the afternoon when the sun hits the crags to tackle another via ferrata route at Ferrata Hvadnik, a ten-minute drive up the valley.  The route described as a climbing route, 500m in length, graded **B/C through a wild gorge in the Gozd Martuljek, provides the opportunity to explore the geological limestone features of the Hvadnik river. As we start, we are quickly impressed with how the route has been secured to the rock, the crossing points across the river give a real adventurous feel, finally exiting after about two hours via the woods at the top of the gorge into a lovely alpine meadow overlooking the stunning snow-capped peaks of the Martuljek mountain range, a beautiful lunch spot. We finish the day exploring a local village further up the valley in the last of the sunlight before it finally dips behind the jagged peaks of the Martuljek range instantly dropping the temperature, a reminder of how cold it will be up on top.

And we’re off

The following morning after our ritual of traditional made stove top, Slovenian coffee (something we learned on the first morning at the hostel) and fresh bread from the local bakery, we scrape the ice from the wind screen, it’s minus two degrees and still dark as we set off towards the Vrata Valley, we are the third vehicle to arrive. The surrounding trees are thick white with frost. We start our ascent through the tree lined gorge, dawn is just breaking, this is the start of the Prag route, we head west weaving our way slowly up an icy single track for a few hours, enough time for the sun to make its warming presence and reveal the steep imposing limestone cliffs on either side of us. Eventually we exit the forest into a flattening, a wooden signpost buried in the snow points us in the direction of the Kredarica hut, nowhere to be seen yet, we continue our steady snow plod.

The route passes Koca na Dolicu 2151m, a mountain hut also now closed for winter (severely damaged by avalanche in 2009 and has since been renovated) before traversing across some amazing geologically formed limestone pavements and turning into loose scree slopes, which seem to go on for ever. I’m beginning to think Dave has put a rock in my rucksack, wouldn’t be the first time… We finally reach the continual snowline in the form of an arete flanking the south face of Triglav, this is the final slog towards the hut, the roof of the huge building is just in view now and soon we are greeted by two meteorologists, enjoying the sun trap outside. We sit staring at the north face of Triglav as the sun starts to drop behind the peak, wondering where the route actually goes as it’s not obvious in the snow from our front row seats. Within minutes the light and warmth from the sun disappears, we are instantly hit by the coldness, now where did I put that headtorch.

Summit to see

Before first light, the next morning, we slowly crawl out from under our blankets, it’s noticeably cold, square our kit away and leave the dorm and head down to the outbuilding of the hut to make porridge and coffee with our locally sourced gas. As we light the stove in the dark, we are startled by a shape silhouetted across the bench starting to move. It’s an Austrian mountaineer sat huddled under a pile of blankets, he’s spent the night there and is visibly shivering. We offer him a brew to warm him up, which he gladly accepts. He’s heading the opposite direction to us today, after summiting a bit later last night than planned. Our route to the summit takes us via the steep ridge line of Mali Triglav’s northeast buttress, crampons fitted and ice axe at the ready, we descend from the hut to the start of the ridge.

The snow is firm with a hard icy crust following a sharp overnight frost, not a breath of wind. As we start our ascent, we find a mix of steel pegs, pitons and cables secured to the rock, some completely covered by the snow and some visible, we make use of our lanyards to protect any steep, exposed sections as necessary on our ascent. It’s a fab route up to the summit, made more interesting by the snowy conditions underfoot. In a little under two hours we are stood at the summit, identified by the Aljaz Turret. We have the most stunning, panoramic view of the Julian, Kamnik – Savinja Alps and the Dolomites, we have the whole mountain to ourselves this morning, perfect timing or perfect planning, I can’t decide, I’m too busy enjoying the vista.

The descent is a reversal of our ascent; we bump into one other mountaineer approaching from the western side from Dom Planika hut and exchange pleasantries. He now has the mountain to himself. Soon we arrive back at the hut and handover a small good will gesture for our hut comrades, which is reciprocated with something stronger and more potent which we need to down in one, to not offend. It brings instant warmth, followed by a cough, which is met by laughing from our hosts, we shake hands and bid farewell, until next time, we head off south down the icy slope. During our descent we come across some friendly, local mountain jackdaws that are happy to share the last of any snacks we have left, and a family of alpine ibex which stops us in our tracks and watch them pass by, so lucky to get that close. Several hours later and we arrive back at the car, it’s still there, our thoughts change to food and visiting the local Pizzeria Kot for a celebratory dinner in Mojstrana that evening and maybe a cheeky beer or two “na zdravje”.

Via Ferrata with a view

The following morning it’s a slow start before heading back up the valley to Ferata Hvadnik to tackle another route a little further up called Ferrata Jerm’n described online as a Ferrata that will not leave you indifferent, still not sure what that actually means… The start of the route is from the asphalt road in the Gozd Martuljek, leading to Srednji Vrh just before the bridge, which crosses the stream flowing from Jerman Waterfall. It’s graded as **D/E, so we are expecting it to be a bit of a challenge, which it certainly is with the start being straight up a vertical wall with a couple of physical moves to get you warmed up, this leads to the scenic Jerman waterfall. It then crosses a stream via a steel cable suspension bridge giving a great vantage point to view the Martuljek mountain range.

The route continues along the wall on the left side of the waterfall where there is an exposed traverse to the right, the most difficult part of the route and leading into the gorge above the waterfall. Another suspended bridge over the stream follows and the final part of the ferrata, which is a stiff pull up the vertical wall until finishing in the trees again, we sit here in the sun and enjoy the views across the valley for a short time before strolling down through the pine forest to finish. We both agree this was the best route of the week, back at the car we now head to Kranske Gora, a town further up the valley towards the Italian, Slovenia border to grab lunch. It’s not quite ski season here yet, but it’s clear the town is being prepared for the influx of skiers arriving over the coming weeks. We finish our day being tourists and first head to Lake Jasna renowned for its crystal-clear water, it’s bustling with folk out enjoying the scenic park, walking, biking, playing frisbee or having a picnic. Before heading back to our hostel to pack for the morning’s flight home, we take a detour and head up to Planica, the Nordic Ski jumping centre. It’s a major activity hub, open all year round offering accommodation along with ice skating, a zipline, indoor skydiving, disc golf, curling, cross country skiing school including six hundred metre underground skiing track. We’re happy to check out the four ski jumps and watch in amazement at the ski jumpers training, as they take it in turns to head down the steep ramp, take off and fly for what seems like ages before landing smoothly in balance. They are obviously well practiced, we can only imagine what it must feel like to go off the end of that ramp…

Big thanks to Dave for joining me and on this adventure and being chief photographer. Slovenia you’ve been amazing! Somehow, I think we’ll be back in the not-too-distant future.

Further reading and recommended books.

  • The Julian Alps of Slovenia, Mountain Walks and Short Treks – Cicerone
  • Slovenia’s Juliana Trail, Hiking – Cicerone
  • Climbing without Frontiers – Istria – Adriatic Coast, climbing guide, Sidarta
  • Map – Wanderkarte 5141 1:35 000, National Park Triglav – Freytag & Berndt
  • Klettersteige Julische Alpen Steiner Alpen · Karawanken · Karnischer Hauptkamm by Alois Goller

Internet links – Via Ferrata Slovenia (these are just a few)

Reference info

  • * Electrical Wholesalers that stocks gas for Jet Boil – ENOS, d.d. PE Plinstal, Industrijska ulica 1a, 4270 Jesenica.
  • ** Via ferrata grades A-Easy, B – Moderately Dificult, C – Difficult, D – Very Difficult, E – Extremely Difficult,  F – >Extremely Difficult
  • *** Equipment hire is available from the Alpine Museum, eg helmet, harness and via ferrata set.

Rock Skills – 1 Day Introduction

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Rock Skills – 1 Day Introduction Course

This course is aimed at anyone who is interested in making their first moves climbing outdoors or would like to experience what is on offer outside the climbing wall. You will have the chance to explore different aspects of the sport and a mix of rock types.

Example of typical program content:
• Get hands on bouldering and rock climbing
• Learn to tie in and belay
• Improve your climbing movement skills.
• Abseiling

 

Is It For Me?

The one day course is aimed at anyone looking to develop their skills enjoying the rich variety of rock climbing on offer here in North Wales. As such it is ideal for: complete novices, as a refresher if you haven’t climbed in a while, active indoor wall climbers that have little or no experience of climbing outside. You don’t have to have any previous experience of rock climbing although being fit and active would be advantageous.

 

Aims
To develop a basic foundation in core rock climbing techniques, whilst climbing a variety of boulder problems & single pitch rock climbs.

Course Content
On the first morning we will discuss individual’s current experience and aspirations, this will ensure the main topic areas can be covered and individual needs can be tailored for. Topic areas include:

• FUNdamental movement skills on a variety of rock types.
• Experience different disciplines of rock climbing.
• Interpreting a bouldering/climbing guidebook and choice of routes.
• Belaying
• Descending from rock climbs by abseil

How to Register on the Rock Skills Scheme

Click on below link to Rock Skills Participant Handbook for full information about the scheme, the course fee includes the cost of registration.

What Happens Next?
At the end of the course I can provide further advice and guidance on your journey to becoming a self-sufficient climber.

*The course will be delivered by myself, I am a full member of the Mountain Training Association (MTA)  British Mountaineering Council (BMC) and authorised training provider for Mountain Training Cymru. I hold the Rock Climbing Instructor (RCI), Climbing Wall Development Instructor (CWDI), Foundation Coach Award and Rope Rescue Technician. Maximum group size is 4: This ensures the maximum learning potential for individuals is achieved through hands on practical sessions.

*Please contact myself via email with any course enquiries martinwall013@gmail.com or click on link below for booking page

*Max Adventures is an accredited provider of the Rock Skills Scheme

 

 

 

Rock Skills – 2 Day Intermediate Course

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Rock Skills – 2 Day Intermediate Course

This course is aimed at people with some experience of climbing (indoors or outdoors) who want to improve their movement skills, develop their rope work skills and learn about traditional protection.

Climbing experience required:
Completion of a 1 day Rock Skills Introduction course or:

Have logged 10 routes on walls or outdoor crags; and

Have logged 10 belays of a fellow climber.

 

What does the Rock Skills Intermediate course cover?

Background and Planning – Choosing a suitable venue, how to use guidebooks and mobile devices to find crags and routes, crag etiquette and the work of the mountaineering councils.
Climbing Skills – Warming up and injury avoidance, developing your movement skills and widening your repertoire of climbing moves.
Footwear and Equipment – Rock boot fit, selecting the right equipment for improved performance and an introduction to climbing protection.

Technical Skills – Building anchors, selecting runners, ropework, belaying, holding falls, lowering, seconding a route and personal abseiling.
Environmental Knowledge –  The impact of climbers at the crag, ethics, access and environmental considerations.
Hazards and Emergency Procedures – Identifying hazards, managing risk when climbing, abseiling and bouldering, understanding common injuries, how to get help and the role of Mountain Rescue.

 

By the end of the course you can expect to:
• Have covered the course content in a safe and enjoyable outdoor environment and classroom-style setting;
• Have climbed outside for a good proportion of each day on an accessible crag; and
• Be in a strong position to second a lead climber on natural rock and participate safely in a climbing session.

 

What Happens Next?

At the end of the course I can provide further advice and guidance on your journey to becoming a self-sufficient climber.
*The course will be delivered by myself, I am a full member of the Mountain Training Association (MTA) British Mountaineering Council (BMC) and authorised training provider for Mountain Training Cymru. I hold the Rock Climbing Instructor (RCI), Climbing Wall Development Instructor (CWDI), Foundation Coach Award and Rope Rescue Technician. Maximum group size is 4: This ensures the maximum learning potential for individuals is achieved through hands on practical sessions.

*Please contact myself via email with any course enquiries: martinwall013@gmail.com or click on below link for bookings:

 

*Max Adventures is an accredited provider of the Rock Skills Scheme

 

 

A Pembroke Sea Cliff Climbing Initiation – Severe to VS

posted in: 2018 | 0

Pembs here we come..

It is the 2nd week in October and typically for North Wales it has been raining on a fairly consistent basis for a few weeks. Having climbed in the Alps earlier this summer and then returning back to the damp mountains of North Wales I had lost my mojo for trad climbing. However, the thought of a three-day trip to Pembroke to climb on some of the best limestone sea cliffs in the world, with over 3000 routes from novice to elite climber is enough to wet my appetite. There is a planned climbing club meet coming up on the weekend in Pembrokeshire. All I need now is a climbing partner! A couple of exchanges via WhatsApp and Ben, a fellow club member and friend is up for it, 3 pounds a night camping, there’s a pub! It’s in walking distance!” appears to seal the deal… Forty-eight hours later and we’re heading to Pembroke with two other climbers from the club Dave & Stu. These guys are veterans of Pembrokeshire Sea Cliff climbing, they have visited the area for over twenty years and know the place inside out. Our aim is to get on some classic climbs and understand the logistics of the place eg the abseil entry points and get as many routes in as possible in the Severe to VS grades, but first we have to pitch our tents in the dark.

                                                                                      The rugged limestone coastline

Bombs away…

The following morning, we are wakened by the definitive thud of artillery rounds nearby. “Incoming” someone shouts from inside a nearby tent we are close to the MOD firing ranges at Castlemartin, it’s Friday and the ranges are still active. We soon decide on a new venue for the day’s climbing, after a quick pot of quick porridge we head quickly to Mother Careys area, from here we are pointed in the direction of the White Tower (sounds like something out of Lord of the Rings) further east, the face of the tower gleams bright as the sunlight reflects off the sea, it looks stunning. We follow the grass banked walk to a col, and then scramble down to a sea level platform that we traverse around to the base of our climb, Sea Groove. It’s given a VS 4C in our guidebook and best done in two pitches. Ben takes the 1st pitch to a niche and I lead us up the steep corner to the top out. And that’s it, we are immediately both hooked on Pembroke limestone, What a fantastic route! The quality of the rock is superb. We head back to meet up with the other guys, we are grinning from ear to ear like a pair of Cheshire cats, In the mean time they have been climbing something a bit more challenging on Brazen Buttress and not for the faint hearted.

Looking down the 2nd pitch of Sea Groove on the White Tower

We chill out for five, and decide on our next route, Dave & Stu have already rigged an abseil up into Mother (S)Carey’s Kitchen so it would be rude not to get on it and have a look at what’s on offer at this famous venue. As we head down, the sea level is rising and the tide is starting to return, a few breakers are spilling over the platform. We arrive at the lower level and are greeted by Jim and Paul also from the club, they have just arrived and about to set off up “Sunsmoke”. Our plan is to tackle a route called “The Cracks” it’s given a severe in our Rockfax guide, we decide to do it in two pitches as there’s an obvious belay cave halfway up. I set off, the climbing is steep but steady for a few moves until I hit the crux. I attempt it the most obvious way but my head doesn’t like it. I climb back down a step to have another look, five mins later after rehearsing the moves several times I have another go, this time I place a cam in the large crack above before setting off. The next couple of moves are quite delicate and require good balance to get to the next good hold, I quickly wrap a sling around a spike for protection, relax and climb on upwards to the cave. As I sit belaying Ben up I think to myself, this route’s not a severe! Ben arrives and agrees with my synopsis, before heading off up the second bold pitch to the top out. We later find out its given a VS 4C in the climbers’ club guide and in my opinion more accurate.

Tackling the Crux on “The Cracks”’

A rude awakening..

Tomorrow’s plan is to visit another local venue, its due to rain overnight so we’ll finalise in the morning, once the weather makes its mind up. Initial thoughts are to head to the cliffs at Saddle Step. After a few beers and evening meal at St Govans Inn we return to our luxury 3-star tents and sleeping bags for the night. I’ve been asleep for what seems like hours when I’m suddenly awakened by a distinctive russelling sound of plastic bags from inside the tent. I reach for my torch and eventually find it and the on button in the darkness to find an intruder in the tent. A hedgehog has infiltrated the inner tent and decided to help himself to the confines of my food bag, he seems to have had a good go at the almonds and apricots and made a start on the dry porridge oats. Shocked, but pleasantly surprised I get out of my sleeping bag and remove the little guy and place him outside Phil & Sean’s tent a few metres away and return to my ransacked tent. It’s several hours later before his return for seconds!! The following morning we are greeted with the forecasted rain so we take a slow start and breakfast at Ye Old Worlde Café in Bosherton, the place has not changed in fifty years I’m informed. It’s mid morning once the rain stops, we head to range west and split into three groups, we head to Saddle Step and the MOD building in search of our recommended three-star VS route Blue Sky. On arrival at the venue its quite obvious from the high spring tide that the full route of Blue Sky is not accessible as the waves are crashing high up on to it. We decide to settle for the route next to it, a Hard Severe and appropriately named Sea Mist. We set up anchors above and abseil down, it appears to be a one pitch route so I take the lead for this one, it has a delicate, bold traverse out to an arete and then the climb leads up the left-hand edge of the slab, the climbing is great and there are plenty of places to place protection on route.

Abseiling down to the ledge of Sea Mist

Save the best for Last

For our final day in Pembroke, we aim for an area known as Mowing Word. A brilliant sea cliff venue with some great routes at all grades. Diedre Sud (HS) is rightly a classic* and first on our list. We park at Stackpole Quay and walk south along the scenic coastal path, the sun is shining and it’s a blue sky day which makes for an enjoyable walk in. It takes about thirty minutes to reach the top of the cliffs and the random abseil stakes at the top where we will start. We rack up and agree who’s leading what pitch and set up our abseil down the long corner in the centre of the limestone face of our route. I’m pretty certain it’s the right route as Ben lowers himself towards the sea. A few minutes later and we’re both hanging from our belay sixty metres from the top, watching the waves crashing in below our feet. Without further ado I lead off up the steep corner, the rock is slightly damp but dries out as I gain height and the quality of the limestone is just fantastic, everything flows and I soon arrive at the half height ledge where I stop to bring up Ben to join me, he gets to climb the whole route without stopping and makes a great lead of the 2nd pitch. At the top we agree it’s a fab route and great addition to the logbook.

Ben heading up the 2nd Pitch of Deidre Sud

After chilling out for a while, an increase to our calorie intake and thumb through the guidebook, we decide on another route, why not ? its early afternoon, plenty of time. We both like the sound of the adventurous three pitch Razorbill (VS 4C), a combination of traversing and steep climbing in exposed positions throughout. We use the same abseil line and reconvene at the hanging belay. Once again I head off first, this time traversing out right before moving up to a ledge beneath the big corner at the lower left-hand side of a sea cave. The hand holds appear fairly positive and there’s some good threads for placing protection. However its mostly barnacles for feet ! The incoming roar of the tide and waves snapping at our heels certainly adds to the ambiance and I struggle to hear Ben shouting profanities on his way over trying to remove the gear.

The adventurous 1st Pitch Traverse of Razorbill (it goes from left to right)

Next up is a steep slab climb to an overhang and once again Ben steps up and makes it look easy with his precision footwork before hitting the crux below an overhang. He’s out of sight now and It takes a few minutes to work out but seems an eternity as the tide is getting closer by the second. ‘Hurry up Ben I say to myself inside my head’. I look across to the other side of the bay and I can see a small crowd of onlookers forming on the top of the cliffs watching the entertainment in anticipation and then I hear the word “Safe” echo out from above. It’s Ben he’s reached the belay, the ropes pull tight and its my turn to climb and not a second to soon as the water is pooling at my feet with the rapidly rising tide. It’s an exposed pitch and certainly adventurous as it winds up the cliff face to a ledge where we are once again acquainted. An exchange of pleasantries, a wave for the cameras and I’m off up the steep wall of the final pitch. Once again it’s exposed but protected, I take the right hand crack of the two and pull over the cliff top to safety to be greeted by Stew and Dave who are waiting tentatively with the keys to the van and our taxi home.. a four hour journey north.

The final pitch

In summary I was completely blown away by the amazing quality and variety of the rock climbing on offer in Pembroke.

Somehow I think we’ll be back in the not too distant future !!

* There’s a valid reason why the route appears in the “Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain”, the “50 Best HS Routes in the UK”, “100 Best Limestone Climbs in Britain”, the “BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist” and last but not least “Libby Peter’s Hard Severe Hit List..